IT’S ALMOST SPRING!
VACCINATIONS
Spring is the preferred time to give yearly vaccinations to your horse. This ensures it has the highest level of protection when it needs it the most. Your horse’s individual needs will determine which vaccine is recommended.
- Core Vaccine. This Zoetis product contains Eastern and Western Encephalitis, Tetanus, West Nile and Rabies. It does not include Rhino Flu which is transmitted from horse to horse. Core Vac is a good choice for horses that are in a closed herd environment (no outside exposure). It is also given to foals when they are started on a vaccination program.
- Rhino Flu Vaccine. This is for the prevention of respiratory sickness. Rhino is the EHV1 Herpes virus. It is recommended that this vaccine be given every six months, especially to horses with high-risk exposure.
- 7 Way Vaccine. This combination vaccine has East and West Encephalitis, Tetanus, West Nile, Flu, Rhino.
Equine activities will be starting up soon, so be sure your horse is protected. Call the office to set up a weekday appointment or come in on Saturdays between 8am till noon. No appointment required!
HAY SOLUTIONS
This time of year, it is tough to find affordable quality hay. Using a slow feed hay net will decrease waste. These nets have smaller openings then standard nets. The amount of hay in each bite is restricted, so hay lasts longer. It also mimics grazing, and helps to prevent impaction colic and ulcers. If you feed round bales, Hay Chix manufactures slow feed nets that virtually eliminate waste. If your horse has shoes, it is recommended to use the net inside a feeder.
Chopped hay or hay cubes are more expensive than baled hay but the quality is very good. Feed 7-8 lbs am and pm, which is equivalent to 10 lbs (2 flakes) of hay.
Beet Pulp is inexpensive but is not without risks and requires more labor. YOU MUST SOAK IN WATER FOR 30 MINUTES, OR THE HORSE WILL CHOKE. 1 lb of dry beet pulp can be substituted for 2 lbs of hay (which is 2 ½ lbs of beet pulp for 1 flake of hay). Mix two parts water to one part beet pulp and soak for 30 minutes prior to feeding. Warm water is absorbed more quickly than cold water.
BREEDING AND FOALING SEASON
Most mares are late having their first heat cycle due to the ice storms. Unless your mare has been under lights, April will most likely be the time to begin preparing for breeding. An ultrasound should be performed to examine the mare’s ovaries to see if she is actively cycling, still shut down (anestrus), or in transition. The ultrasound will allow the Dr to determine if a Prostin (Lutealyse) injection can be given to bring her in to heat. When in heat, a uterine culture is strongly recommended. This is to confirm the uterus is free from infection prior to breeding. If the culture is not “clean”, the uterus must be treated with antibiotics, then re-cultured to confirm there is no infection remaining.
If breeding with shipped semen, the Dr will need to know stallion collection days and a contact phone number to order semen. When your mare is in a good heat cycle, it is preferred that you leave the mare at the clinic. She will need a daily ultrasound to measure follicle size to determine when the semen should be ordered.
PRE-FOALING
Pregnant mares should be vaccinated with 7 Way and rabies 1-2 months prior to foaling. There is currently no tetanus vaccine available for the foal, so it is very important to give the pre-foaling shots. Check to confirm the mare’s vulva was not sutured after breeding. If so, it must be opened by a veterinarian. Udder development begins 3-4 weeks before foaling and the milk drops during the last week. This is when you can get milk from the teat for testing. Using a foaling prediction kit (ph strips) to test her milk will keep you from needlessly missing sleep. The strips are very accurate. When the strip turns green, expect her to foal.
FOALING
When the mare is in labor, she may be restless, not eating, pacing, getting up and down, rolling, looking at her sides, sweating and dripping milk. When the water breaks, she will discharge a large volume of pink, watery fluid. Within 5 minutes, the amniotic sac appears and will look like a white bubble filled with fluid. DO NOT INTERFERE! Both front feet should appear in the sac, one just behind the other. This will be followed by the nose on top of the legs, and the mare will probably be down straining. She should then push the shoulders and chest of the foal out, giving one last push to expel the hindquarters. If the sac has not been removed from the foal’s head and nose, break the sac and clean the nose to allow the baby to breathe. Leave the mare and foal alone! Once the mare stands, the umbilical cord will break. Treat the foal’s umbilical cord with diluted betadine or chlorhexidine. The foal should stand within the hour, often after several failed attempts. You may assist it at this point. He/she should be standing and nursing within 2-3 hours. It may take several attempts to find the teat. Bend down and look to be sure the foal is nursing. Gulping audibly (swallowing) indicates successful nursing. The mare should pass the placenta with 4 hours after foaling.
WHEN TO CALL THE VET
At foaling, if there are no feet 20 minutes after the water breaks, the foal may be out of position. If the mare does not pass her placenta 4-6 hours after foaling the vet will need to remove it. DO NOT PULL ON THE PLACENTA! You could pull the mare’s uterus out which is life threatening. Watch the mare for any fever or pus discharge that develops. She could have an infection and/or partially retained placenta and will need to be flushed out. Your vet may recommend Banamine after foaling if the mare is uncomfortable or showing signs of colic. Make sure the foal is nursing. If the foal isn’t nursing in 3 hours or stops nursing (a dripping udder is a sign) call the vet. If the foal acts colicky, or is straining to have a BM, it needs enemas.
MARCH CASTRATION SIGNS: MARCH 24-30
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